Ise JinguIse Jingu — Visiting Japan’s Sacred and Cultural Heart
After tracing the old Nakasendo and uncovering Nagoya’s rich history, I set out for Ise Jingu, the grand shrine that has drawn countless pilgrims for centuries and still holds a special place in many hearts today. For travelers like me, it offers one of the most profound encounters with Japan’s sacred culture. During the Edo period (1603–1868), the pilgrimage to Ise sparked extraordinary waves of devotion every few decades, with millions making the journey across Japan each time. I took the Ise Kaido, the main pilgrimage path, branching off the old Tokaido highway linking Edo and Kyoto. Along this road, bustling post towns thrived as inns and marketplaces, turning the journey into a lively stage for cultural exchange during the Edo period. In many ways, this was more than just a road—it helped shape a culture of travel and enjoyment that defined the spirit of the time.
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The distance from Nagoya to Ise Jingu is approximately 100 kilometers. In the past, traveling on foot would take several days, but now it is reachable in about an hour and twenty minutes by taking the Kintetsu Limited Express from Nagoya Station to Iseshi Station. By car, the Ise Expressway takes you there in roughly an hour and forty minutes.
Ise Jingu honors Amaterasu, the ancestral deity of Japan’s Imperial family. At its heart are two main shrines: Naiku (Inner Shrine) and Geku (Outer Shrine), surrounded by 125 smaller shrines. Just a few minutes’ walk from Iseshi Station. Even today, offerings of cooked rice, fish, vegetables, seaweed, and other dishes are made as part of a solemn ritual twice a day. These offerings primarily come from the sea and mountains of the Ise-Shima region, highlighting the close bond between the shrine, its natural surroundings, and the local fishing and farming communities.
The Geku’s appeal lies in its tranquil atmosphere. Spread across expansive grounds, ancient trees grow thick and tall, surrounding simple yet striking shrines crafted from unpainted hinoki cypress, a kaya thatched roof, and pillars embedded directly into the earth. This understated beauty left a lasting impression on me, a quiet reminder of nature’s presence in this sacred space.
Every 20 years, Ise Jingu holds the Shikinen Sengu, the sacred renewal ceremony, involving rebuilding the shrines anew—a tradition with over 1,300 years of history. More than just reconstruction, this ritual embodies the ancient Japanese philosophy of constant renewal and, importantly, transfers the deity from the old structure to the new. It keeps the shrines forever fresh and pure, and at the same time preserves Japan’s traditional crafts, from carpentry and metalwork to textile artistry, passing these skills on to future generations. The next Shikinen Sengu is scheduled for 2033, and preparations have already begun at Geku. If you want to learn more, visit the Sengukan Museum and take an immersive journey through the intricate architectural techniques of the shrine, revealing the profound significance of this timeless ritual.
Next, I visited Naiku, just a ten-minute drive or bus ride from Geku. Naiku is dedicated to Amaterasu, the most revered deity in Japanese mythology, and stands as the sacred heart of Ise Jingu.
Ujibashi Bridge, standing at the entrance to Naiku, serves as a boundary between sacred and everyday life. The moment I crossed it, I was embraced by the fresh, pure air of the surrounding forest. Then I dipped my hands into the clear, cool waters of the Isuzu River and felt a refreshing chill that sharpened my spirit and focus. The river's water is used to cleanse the minds and bodies of worshippers.
The path leading to the main shrine is surrounded by lush greenery, and as I walked along the stone-paved road bathed in dappled sunlight, I felt myself leaving the noise of daily life behind. The main shrine itself is simple yet solemn, its serene presence reflecting the deep reverence held for this sacred space. Beyond the main shrine, Naiku’s highlights include several auxiliary shrines such as one that enshrines the vigorous aspect of the goddess Amaterasu. On the grounds, there is also a stable where sacred horses are kept—if you are lucky, you might catch a glimpse of one.
After completing my visit to Naiku, I stopped by Oharai-machi, a charming street stretching west from Ujibashi Bridge. The stone-paved road is lined with traditional townhouses that evoke the atmosphere of a temple town from the Edo to Meiji eras. Along the street, I discovered the flagship Akafuku sweet shop, a historic Ise udon noodle restaurant, and various shops displaying local ingredients—perfect spots to soak up a relaxed travel vibe.
Halfway through Oharai-machi lies Okage Yokocho, a lively cultural area where the spirit of Ise truly comes alive. Here, Edo-period streetscapes are carefully recreated, and shops selling traditional crafts and Japanese goods invite visitors to browse. Sampling local snacks while exploring and hunting for authentic Ise souvenirs made a memorable part of my pilgrimage experience.
After touring both Geku and Naiku and savoring regional specialties for lunch at Okage Yokocho, I took a 20-minute drive from Naiku to Futami. This coastal town has long been known as the site where pilgrims would purify themselves in the sea before making their way to Ise Jingu. While the morning sky had been overcast, the afternoon brought clear, vibrant blue skies, perfectly complementing the serene seaside atmosphere.
Futami Okitama Shrine, set on this sacred shore, overlooks two rocks—one large, one small—tied together by a sacred Shimenawa rope, known as the Meoto Iwa or Wedded Rocks. Beloved as symbols of marital harmony and matchmaking, the rocks are also a renowned spot for witnessing breathtaking sunrises.
Throughout the shrine grounds, numerous frog statues, in Japanese, kaeru is a homonym for both frog and return, making these figures beloved symbols for travelers wishing for a safe journey. Standing here, feeling the fresh sea breeze off Ise Bay, I found it the perfect place to pray for safety on this trip and for good fortune on the road ahead. From here, my journey continues southward, following the Kumano Kodo Ise route toward the sacred Kumano Sanzan.
It takes about 2 hours to drive from Nagoya IC to Ise IC via the Higashi-Meihan Expressway and Ise Expressway. After exiting at Ise IC, take the local roads to Geku (Outer Shrine), approximately 10 minutes.
By public transportation, take the Kintetsu Limited Express from Kintetsu Nagoya Station to Iseshi Station (about 1 hour 20 minutes). From Iseshi Station, walk about 5 minutes to reach Geku (Outer Shrine). The total journey time is approximately 1 hour 30 minutes.
To continue from Geku to Naiku (Inner Shrine), take the local bus from the bus stop near Geku to Naiku-mae bus stop (about 10 minutes). The bus service runs frequently throughout the day, making it the most convenient way to travel between the two main shrine complexes.
