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KUMANO KODOMount Koya

My journey began in Nagoya with a visit to Ise Jingu, Japan’s most revered shrine, followed by a trek along the Kumano Kodo Iseji, a historic pilgrimage route leading to the sacred Kumano Sanzan. To bring this journey along Japan’s historic highways to a fitting close, I chose Mt. Koya—the spiritual stronghold of Shingon Buddhism founded by Kobo Daishi in the 9th century. Perched at about 800 meters, the mountaintop town still hosts over a hundred temples and temple lodgings, its air steeped in pilgrimage and meditation. Nowhere else could feel more like the true climax of this journey.

Previous Articles:
・Ise Jingu — Visiting Japan’s Sacred and Cultural Heart
・The Kumano Kodo Iseji — Japan’s World Heritage Pilgrimage Trail
・Kumano Kodo — Hiking Japan’s Sacred Kumano Sanzan Shrines

I set out on my hike at Mt. Koya’s Nyonin-do, or Women’s Hall. Once a place of prayer for women who were not allowed to enter Mt. Koya, the building still stands as a reminder of that history. Today, it welcomes all visitors, offering a peaceful starting point for their journey through this sacred mountain.

Just past the Nyonin-do, the trail led me into the forest, where I walked between towering trees to the sound of birdsong mingling with the distant tolling of temple bells. Through breaks in the canopy, I occasionally caught sight of the Danjo Garan, Mt. Koya’s iconic temple complex. The first stop on the route was Mt. Benten. After a steady 30–40-minute climb, I reached the summit, where a small shrine offered a quiet place to pause. Standing there, I took in the surrounding forest and felt the gentle hush of the mountain around me.

As I descended from Mt. Benten, passing beneath a series of striking red torii gates, the great western entrance to Mt. Koya—the Daimon—appeared before me. Towering more than 25 meters high, the deep crimson gate commands awe with its sheer presence. Stepping through it, the streets and temple town of Mt. Koya unfolded before me.

Instead of passing through the Daimon, I chose a back route through the forest leading toward Okuno-in. The trail climbed over several small passes and led past Entsuritsu-ji, a temple reserved for ascetic training. Unlike the busier parts of Mt. Koya, the Nyonin-michi was almost deserted; its peaceful path enveloped in fresh green leaves—a refreshing way to continue the journey.

Continuing along the path, I spotted a Jizo statue that was watching over travelers, and at last the entrance to Okuno-in came into view. From the Nyonin-do, with a few detours along the way, the walk took about three and a half hours at an easy pace. Near the Okuno-in bus stop is a cluster of restaurants providing the perfect place to stop for lunch.

After lunch, I set off along the stone-paved path leading towards Okuno-in. Stone lanterns flanked the path on both sides, while countless ancient graves and small shrines, their origins lost to time, stood quietly. I had arrived at the sacred heart of Okuno-in, where photography is prohibited and pilgrims move with reverent silence. In front of the mausoleum, where Kobo Daishi is said to continue his meditation even today, many bowed their heads in silent prayer.

With Okuno-in behind me, I now headed into the central area of Mt. Koya. Temples, temple lodgings, and souvenir shops lined the streets, making for a pleasant, leisurely stroll. Renowned sites like Kongobu-ji and the Danjo Garan, steeped in history and religious significance, stood prominently along the way. The lively streets offered a striking contrast to the serene mountain paths I had just traversed, showing yet another side of Mt. Koya.

From the mountain path I had walked that morning, I could glimpse the tip of the pagoda at Danjo Garan. It was impressive to finally see it up close. This central sacred area, where Mt. Koya’s original temple complex was first established, houses structures such as the Konpon Daito and Kondo, allowing visitors to immerse themselves in the world of Shingon Buddhism.

By evening, as the sun began to dip toward the west, I finally returned to the Daimon, Mt. Koya’s grand western gate. The drifting scent of incense, the tolling of bells marking the hour, and the sight of monks moving silently—everything here felt extraordinary. Even the taste of a traditional Koya-san sweet, enjoyed at a local Japanese sweet shop I had ducked into to escape the heat, stayed with me long after.

With a little more time, I could have continued along the Nyonin-michi I walked that day, exploring the three peaks encircling Mt. Koya. Another option would have been to follow the Choishi-michi, an old pilgrimage route. This ancient path is a quiet lane that winds away from the town center, where old stone Buddhist statues, the local post office, and neighborhood shops remain, offering glimpses into how daily life and spiritual devotion intersect on Mt. Koya

For those looking for a more demanding hike, the Kohechi trail offers an enticing challenge. It connects Kumano Hongu Taisha, which I had visited earlier, with the Nyonin-michi I had just walked. As a mid- to advanced-level route of the Kumano Kodo, it takes several days to traverse. The changes in elevation reward hikers with stunning views and a real sense of achievement.

Mt. Koya, established by the Heian-era monk Kobo Daishi, has served as a center of faith and spiritual practice for more than 1,200 years. Even without knowing its history, simply standing here evokes a sense of something greater—perhaps the weight of all that accumulated time. Walking slowly along these historic highways, the joy of tracing Japan’s past felt unparalleled. The quiet paths, the temples, and the centuries-old stone markers seemed to whisper stories of pilgrims long gone, connecting the present to a rich tapestry of devotion and culture. I found myself wishing the journey could go on a little longer, savoring every step, every sound, and every fleeting glimpse of the history that this remarkable land has to offer.

It takes about 3 hours to drive from Nagoya IC to Katsuragi IC via the Higashi-Meihan Expressway. After exiting at the Kihoku-Katsuragi IC, continue along winding mountain roads to Koyasan, which takes approximately 45 minutes. The final approach involves narrow mountain roads requiring careful driving.

By public transportation, take the Kintetsu Limited Express from Kintetsu Nagoya Station to Osaka-Namba Station (about 2 hours 15 minutes). From Namba Station, take the Nankai Koya Line to Gokurakubashi Station (about 1 hour 30 minutes), then transfer to the cable car to Koyasan Station (about 5 minutes). From Koyasan Station, local buses are available to various temple sites and the town center within this sacred Buddhist-mountain complex. The total journey time is approximately 4 hours 15 minutes including transfer times.

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