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NAGOYANagoya

After finishing my walk along the Nakasendo, I found myself back where I began—in Nagoya. Before setting off again through Ise and onward to the Kumano Kodo, I want to pause and take in what this city has to offer. For anyone tracing Japan’s old post roads, Nagoya is far too rich in history to rush through. From the legacy of the Tokugawa family and the imposing Nagoya Castle to the old post town of Miya-juku and the sacred grounds of Atsuta Shrine, this city remains a vibrant crossroads where highways, culture, and faith have long converged.

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Completed in 1615, Nagoya Castle served as the seat of the Owari Tokugawa clan and remains the city’s enduring symbol. The Owari Tokugawa was the most prominent of the three great Tokugawa family branches that conferred the right to supply a new shogun if the main line ever failed to produce one.

Their territory, known as the Owari domain, lay along the Nakasendo and contained many holdings. It was home to post towns like Magome-juku, Tsumago-juku, and Narai-juku that I visited previously on the rugged stretch known as the Kisoji, in the Kiso Valley. Since ancient times, the Kiso valley has been famed for producing fine hinoki cypress. As part of the Owari Domain, the Tokugawa designated five types of trees as the Kiso Goki (Five Trees of Kiso), and enforced strict laws against illegal logging, so strict that people used to say, “Cut one tree, lose one head.” Kiso hinoki was highly prized and used to build Nagoya Castle and structures throughout the castle town. It was also shipped to Edo (modern-day Tokyo) and Osaka and provided a major source of revenue for the domain.

At the time, Nagoya Castle was known for having one of Japan’s largest keeps, and its roof was crowned with the impressive golden Shachihoko (a mythical creature with the body of a carp and the head of a dragon). The creature was a protective charm against fire, made from gold pressed over iron and a wooden hinoki cypress core. Altogether, it presented an awe-inspiring sight.
More recently, in 2018, the Honmaru Palace was reconstructed, using hinoki cypress, and has become a must-see location of the castle. The scent of cypress fills the interior, revitalizing weary travelers with its freshness, while the dazzling designs and sliding doors—restored with authentic period techniques— are truly breathtaking to behold. It is a one-of-a-kind setting that lets you sense the world that Tokugawa shoguns and samurai lords once called their own.

Related Article: Magome-juku to Tsumago-juku — Follow the Footsteps of Travelers Past

To fully appreciate the legacy and prosperity of the Owari Domain, visitors should see the Tokugawa Art Museum and Tokugawa Garden in addition to Nagoya Castle.

The Tokugawa Art Museum preserves and exhibits more than 10,000 items, including the furnishings and treasures once owned by the Owari Tokugawa family, National Treasures such as the Tale of Genji picture scrolls, and numerous Important Cultural Properties. Its sword collection is especially remarkable — a must-see for anyone who wants to feel the culture and spirit of the samurai.

Next to the Tokugawa Art Museum lies Tokugawaen, which traces its origins to a garden created as a retirement retreat for the lords of the Owari Domain. The picturesque garden, centered around a pond, was designed for strolls. It evokes the sea, with scenic features arranged around its waters and a small teahouse overlooking the pond, giving it an air of quiet elegance. Visitors can also enjoy seasonal highlights throughout the year — peonies in April, irises from late May to early June, and vibrant autumn foliage in the fall.

Both are just a few kilometers from Nagoya Castle, but since it is a bit too far to walk comfortably, taking a bus or taxi is recommended.

When the Tokugawa shogunate unified Japan in the early 17th century, it established a vast network of post towns (shukuba) along key highways like the Tokaido and Nakasendo to secure travel and communication across the country. Nagoya, sitting at the junction of these two major routes between Edo and Kyoto, grew into an important transport hub with several thriving post towns, including Miya-juku, one of the busiest on either highway. From Nagoya, travelers branched off toward the Kisoji and Ise Kaido, spreading the city’s influence along these historic roads.

The post towns were numbered starting from Edo, making Miya-juku the 41st of the 53 post towns along the Tokaido. The name Miya means shrine, and the town first thrived by serving the nearby Atsuta Shrine. It became more prosperous during the Edo period as an important stop along the Tokaido highway.

This section of the Tokaido was unique—instead of a land route, Miya-juku and the next post town, Kuwana-juku (the 42nd stop from Edo), were connected by a sea crossing called Shichiri no Watashi, or the Seven-ri ferry (about 27–28 kilometers). In those days, travelers would cover this distance by boat before continuing toward Kyoto or Ise.

Modern development has erased the visible traces of the old post town, but in its heyday, it housed 248 inns, more than any other post town. Today, the restored stone lantern and timekeeping bell at the former ferry landing still offer a glimpse into its past ambiance.

After visiting Miya-juku, stop by Atsuta Shrine—it is just a short walk away. Atsuta Shrine houses the Kusanagi no Tsurugi, one of Japan’s Three Imperial Regalia, and is considered one of the country’s most revered shrines. Oda Nobunaga, the famous warlord of the Warring States Period, came to Atsuta Shrine to pray for victory before the decisive Battle of Okehazama. After his triumph, he donated a fence—known today as the Nobunaga Wall—which still stands within the shrine grounds.

The dense forest surrounding the shrine conveys its rich history and spiritual mystery and serves as an oasis from the hubbub of the city. The shrine also features the Kusanagi-kan, a sword museum where its collection of swords is rotated and exhibited monthly.

Today, Atsuta Shrine remains one of Japan’s most important Shinto sites, attracting millions of visitors each year who come to pray for protection, good fortune, and family well-being. It hosts major annual festivals such as the Atsuta Matsuri in June, along with seasonal rites like New Year’s visits and Setsubun ceremonies. Locals celebrate life events here too, including weddings, baby blessings, and children’s milestones. Beyond its spiritual role, Atsuta Shrine is a beloved cultural landmark in Nagoya, with its centuries-old camphor trees, historic gates, and treasure hall drawing tourists, school groups, and pilgrims alike.

After exploring Nagoya’s rich history as a crossroads of ancient highways, the journey continues to Ise Jingu. For travelers from Edo, this leg was often part of the famous Ise Mairi pilgrimage. For others, it was one more step on a longer trek along the Kumano Kodo Iseji route, leading onward to the three sacred shrines of Kumano.

By public transportation, take the Meitetsu μ-SKY Limited Express from Chubu Centrair International Airport Station directly to Meitetsu Nagoya Station (about 30 minutes). This is the fastest and most convenient option with all-reserved seating for a comfortable journey. Meitetsu Nagoya Station is connected to JR Nagoya Station via underground walkways in about 5 minutes, providing easy access to the main railway network.

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